When shaving the cheeks for the first time while leaving the mustache and goatee intact, the result can be surprising: too thin, too wide, or frankly asymmetrical. The Van Dyke beard requires a precision that most styles do not demand, because every area of the face is exposed.
This style, named after the Flemish painter Anthony Van Dyck in the 17th century, combines a mustache and a goatee that are deliberately separated, with clean cheeks. Actors like Johnny Depp or Pierce Brosnan have brought it back into the spotlight, and tutorials on TikTok and Instagram Reels have contributed to its popularity among younger people in recent years.
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Shaving the cheeks and neckline: the two areas that make or break the Van Dyke
The majority of guides focus on the mustache and goatee. It’s understandable, as that’s the visible part. But the real work lies on the cheeks and neck, because poorly shaved cheeks immediately ruin the Van Dyke effect.
Specifically, you start by letting a full beard grow for a few weeks. Trying to sculpt a Van Dyke with three days of growth leads to a blurry result, with no contrast between the filled areas and the shaved areas.
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Once the length is sufficient (a few centimeters), the first pass of the trimmer concerns the cheeks. You shave from the bottom of the sideburn to the corner of the lips, keeping a half-centimeter margin around the mustache. For those who want to adopt the Van Dyke beard with Zaza Mode, this delimitation step is the most crucial part of the process.
The neckline poses another problem. If it’s too high, it gives an artificial “chin strap” effect. If it’s too low, the goatee gets lost in the neck growth. The right height is just above the Adam’s apple, tracing a natural curve from one ear to the other. You shave everything below with a razor or trimmer without a guard.
Disconnected or connected mustache: choosing your Van Dyke variant
The classic Van Dyke clearly separates the mustache from the goatee. No hair at the corners, no bridge between the two. This is what distinguishes it from the standard goatee or the balbo.
This disconnection is not just aesthetic; it changes maintenance. Without a connection between the mustache and chin, each area is trimmed independently. The mustache is combed sideways and trimmed with scissors to the level of the upper lip. The goatee is styled to a point or rounded shape depending on the face shape.
Opinions vary on this point: some find the disconnection too strict and prefer to leave a slight fuzz at the corners to soften the overall look. It’s a matter of hair density and face shape. On a round face, a pointed goatee visually elongates the chin, and a clear disconnection accentuates this effect. On an elongated face, a softer variant with a slight connection at the corners avoids overly stretching the proportions.
Variants based on hair density
Not all men have the same distribution of facial hair. Those with little hair on their cheeks have an advantage: less shaving, a natural contrast. Those with a dense and uniform beard will need to shave more often to maintain the sharpness of the contours.
If the mustache grows faster than the goatee (a common case), you adjust the length of the mustache with the trimmer every three or four days, allowing the goatee to catch up. The opposite also works: synchronizing the length between the mustache and goatee gives a coherent result.
Daily maintenance of the Van Dyke beard: tools and concrete routine
A neglected Van Dyke loses its identity in just a few days. The contours blur, the neck hair grows back, and the mustache overflows onto the lip. The maintenance routine is not complicated, but it must be regular.
The tools that enhance precision
- A trimmer with adjustable guards to maintain a uniform length on the goatee and mustache, ideally with a precision guard for the contours
- A razor (manual or electric) for the cheeks and neck, to be used every two to three days depending on the growth rate
- Beard scissors for occasional touch-ups, especially for mustache hairs that exceed the lip
- A beard oil or balm to hydrate the goatee and prevent itching, especially in the first few weeks
The rise of hybrid trimmers and precision razors makes this type of style more accessible than a few years ago. Recent models include pivoting heads that follow the contours of the chin, which reduces the risk of cutting too short at the angles of the goatee.
Typical weekly routine
Two to three times a week, you run the razor over the cheeks and neck to maintain the contrast. Once a week, you adjust the length of the goatee and mustache with the appropriate guard on the trimmer. Applying a few drops of beard oil after washing keeps the hairs soft and makes combing easier.
Washing is done with a gentle cleanser, not with regular soap that dries out the hair. You dry by patting, without rubbing, then comb the mustache to the sides and the goatee down to discipline the growth direction.
Van Dyke beard at the barbershop: what a professional brings additionally
French barbershops are increasingly offering beard design services that go beyond simple trimming. An experienced barber can trace the contours with a straight razor with a precision that is difficult to replicate at home, especially for the disconnection between the mustache and goatee and the symmetry of the neckline.
A first outline done in the salon then serves as a guide for home maintenance. You follow the existing lines rather than redrawing the contours with each shave, which reduces the risk of gradually trimming the goatee or mustache too much.
A visit to a barber every three to four weeks is enough to realign the contours, adjust the shape of the point, and check the symmetry. Between appointments, the home routine described above maintains the style without particular difficulty. For a style that relies entirely on the sharpness of the lines, this salon-home combination remains the most reliable.